2019 Samuel Billaud Chablis Fourchaumes 1er

Deriving from Vaulorent, Billaud’s 2019 Chablis 1er Cru Les Fourchaumes mingles notes of citrus oil and green apple with hints of beeswax and pastry cream in an inviting bouquet. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered, it’s a tangy, tightly wound wine that’s structured and reserved. This will merit and reward a bit of bottle age.

Having parted ways with Domaine Billaud Simon, Samuel Billaud established his own state-of-the-art winery in central Chablis several years ago, and he has rapidly emerged as one of the town’s best half-dozen producers. Working with four hectares of organically farmed estate vineyards, supplemented by purchased grapes, manual harvesting of ripe but bright fruit is the rule here, followed by fermentation at 16 to 20 degrees Celsius in tank and inconspicuous wood, and maturation for 15 to 18 months on the lees for the premiers crus and grand cru bottlings. The 2019 vintage has turned out brilliantly at this address, and everything reviewed here comes warmly recommended.