2020 Comando G Tumba del Rey Moro

One of the more ethereal, paler, elegant and complex versions of this ungrafted vineyard in the village of Villanueva de Ávila is the 2020 Tumba del Rey Moro. This is closer to the elegant style of Umbrías than their own Umbrías this year. It was a good-yielding year; the vines were very balanced after many years of working them organically and biodynamically (but they’re not yet certified). The wine is aromatic and floral, nuanced and fine-boned, mineral and vertical, with a texture of fine sand and light, energy and inner strength to the point where it’s impossible to reflect it in a score. It has a faint bitter twist in the finish that is reminiscent of blood orange peel, which drove me crazy. This has to be the finest version of Tumba del Rey Moro to date. Bravo! 1,967 bottles and 50 magnums were filled in May 2022.