2022 Francois Chidaine Montlouis les Bournais

Wine Advocate 95 – “Crafted from vines rooted in clay-limestone soils and vinified and matured in large barrels, the 2022 Montlouis-sur-Loire Les Bournais is yet another standout in Chidaine’s portfolio. It opens with vibrant aromas of lemon, confit citrus, flowers and spring blossoms. Medium- to full-bodied, it is round and sappy, with a fleshy core of fruit, a layered mid-palate and an enveloping texture, concluding with a long, racy finish marked by a fine thread of gastronomic bitterness. Sourced from a northwest-facing plot, this may well be the most underrated cuvée at this address.

Originally from Montlouis-sur-Loire, François Chidaine began working in the family vineyard in 1984, assuming significant responsibilities from the outset. He founded his domaine in 1989, assembling four hectares of scattered parcels. Encouraged by Didier Dagueneau and Nady Foucault, he adopted organic methods early on. The first years were challenging, yet under the guidance of biodynamic consultant François Bouchet, he pursued conversion as early as 1989. With his parents’ retirement in 1999, the estate expanded to 17 hectares, and that same year, his wife, Manuela, joined him in the venture.

Few doubt that the renaissance of Montlouis-sur-Loire owes much to Chidaine. His wines—defined by purity, energy, structure and crystalline precision—have elevated the appellation’s reputation and shaped its identity. In the early 2000s, he expanded into Vouvray, acquiring the Clos Baudoin. Yet AOC regulations, which prohibit vinification outside appellation limits, meant that these wines could only be bottled as Vin de France, since Chidaine vinifies all his wines in Montlouis.

The vineyards of Montlouis largely occupy plateaus, and Chidaine’s parcels reflect this character. Vines average nearly 50 years of age and are planted from massal selections on clay soils shot through with flint. Chidaine avoids routine soil tillage, arguing that it is “counterproductive to microbial life.” Instead, he relies on under-vine cover cropping and rotational crops between rows, though he concedes that tillage remains necessary for young vines.

In the cellar, fermentations rely exclusively on indigenous yeasts, with pieds de cuve employed to ensure a clean, steady start. Maturation is carried out in various cooperages, most commonly in demi-muids or 500-liter barrels. Elevage is tailored to cépage and site, but the emphasis remains on preserving freshness and precision.

The range encompasses blended cuvées—Choisilles, Argiles, Tuffeaux, Moelleux—and single-vineyard expressions such as Clos du Breuil, Les Bournais, Clos Habert and Clos Baudoin. All reward cellaring, and their vibrancy and structure unfold over several years to reveal depth and complexity.

Today, Domaine François Chidaine stands as one of the Loire Valley’s benchmarks, a vital reference point for anyone serious about Chenin Blanc.”