2007 Charles Heidsieck Blanc des Millenaires Brut Champagne

Decanter 95 – ” Seven up for Charles Heidsieck; the seventh release of their magnificent Blanc des Millénaires Champagne, the 2007. Their charismatic chef de caves, Cyril Brun, describes the wine as ‘dangerous’, as in dangerously good, and it is hard not to concur. The legendary Daniel Thibault, who made the first Blanc des Millénaires in 1983, was aspiring to make a very specific style of Chardonnay, rich and indulgent at the same time as being classical and rigorous of construction, a deft paradox in other words. The 2007, child of a cooler, more linear vintage than the rather heady 2006, has achieved this ambition with great aplomb. Cyril is confident that stylistically the 2007 will be closest to the 2004 and the 1995, both greatly lauded and both of which have had an unfailing capacity to win virtually every competition into which they are entered. The pale gold shimmers invitingly, its mousse discreet yet persistent, its aromatics hitherto dominated by notes of grapefruit, yuzu, citrus and quince, behind that sourdough, flint-stone and intimations of toast and honey, both of which will become more pronounced over the splendours of a long life. 20% each of five great villages, all but Vertus ranked as Grand Cru, have provided the raw materials for this most magisterial of Blanc de Blancs Champagnes.”

Wine Advocate 95 – “Cyril Brun considers the 2007 vintage more interesting for Chardonnay than 2008, and Charles Heidsieck’s 2007 Brut Blanc de Blancs Blanc des Millénaires is certainly a compelling wine. Unwinding in the glass with scents of crisp stone fruits, honeycomb, buttered pastry, yellow apples, pear and freshly baked bread, it’s full-bodied, ample and seamless, with a concentrated core of fruit and a chiseled, racy profile. Combining generosity and tension, it’s a terrific new release.”