2017 Arterberry Maresh Chardonnay Dundee Hills

This is Jim Maresh’s entry-level Chardonnay, barrel fermented and finished in stainless steel. It comes from Dijon 76 clone vines planted in 1991 on a steep, south-facing slope. The 2017 Dundee Hills Chardonnay has a lovely, open-knit nose of honeycomb, orange blossom, apple pie, crushed hazelnuts, clotted cream, baked peaches, hay and a unique umami-like undercurrent. The palate is medium-bodied and silky, tethered by tangy acidity and a hint of phenolic texture, finishing long and nuanced with incredible tension and energy. Even this “village” level Chardonnay manages class and hedonism. This could use another couple of years in bottle at least. It’s bottled under Diam 30 and should age well.