2017 Domaine du Clos des Rocs (Olivier Giroux) Pouilly-Loché Clos des Rocs (Monopole)

Wine Advocate/William Kelley 93 – “The 2017 Pouilly-Loché Clos des Rocs (Monopole) spent a year in barrel followed by six months in tank, and it’s Giroux’s most serious bottling, unwinding to reveal aromas of white flowers, warm bread, confit citrus and pear. On the palate, it’s medium to full-bodied, ample and elegantly reserved, with a satiny attack, ripe acids and a saline finish. This parcel was planted in the 1930s.”

The young and ambitious Olivier Giroux purchased the Domaine du Clos des Rocs in 2002, an 8.8-hectare estate that includes over six hectares within the small but complex 32-hectare appellation of Pouilly-Loché. Organic conversion began in 2006. Manual harvest is followed by lengthy pressing and élevage in tank, demi-muid and barrel, with minimal percentages of new oak. The wines are pure, limpid and fleshy, with succulent balancing acids. Giroux contends that the character of Pouilly-Loché approaches most closely the wines of Chaintré that are entitled to the Pouilly-Fuissé AOC, a persuasive argument. This is an excellent address that comes highly recommended. What’s more, it will be exciting to follow Giroux’s progress over the years to come.”