2018 Domaine Lionnet Cornas Terre Brulee

“Opaque violet color. Precise, mineral-accented scents of blackberry, cassis and exotic spices are accompanied by a slowly emerging floral nuance. Sappy and energetic on the palate, displaying sharp delineation to its concentrated black/blue fruit, floral pastille, olive and allspice flavors. Finishes extremely long and spicy, with intense mineral thrust, a hint of candied violet and subtly chewy, harmonious tannins that make a late appearance.

Ludovic Izerable is making some the best traditionally styled wines in Cornas right now, but they are by no means rustic or forbiddingly tannic, which some people still believe is the “traditional” version of wines from the appellation. The fact is, many of those wines were just plain dirty and coarse. Not here. The tidy cellar here is quite small, a reflection of the fact that this domaine, whose roots in Cornas trace back to 1575, comprises a mere four hectares. The wines are fermented in concrete tanks, with their native yeasts; all whole clusters are used, there’s no fining or filtration, and new oak is brought in only to replace barrels that have outlived their usefulness. Izerable told me that while 2018 “made wines that are richer than usual, they’re also alive, not like in a typical hot year.” They have healthy tannins, he added, “but they don’t stand out from, or overshadow the fruit.”