2018 Jean-Marc Seleque Champagne Soliste Chardonnay Pierry Les Tartieres et Les Porgeons (Pre-arrival)

The 2018 Extra-Brut Soliste Chardonnay Pierry 1er Les Tartières et Les Porgeons is lovely, bursting with aromas of white flowers, pear, peach, citrus zest and a subtle touch of buttery pastry. Full-bodied, vinous and satiny, with an ample, fleshy core of fruit, lively acids and a long, saline finish, it’s a decidedly vinous, gastronomic Champagne.

As I’ve written before, Jean-Marc Sélèque is one of Champagne’s most exciting and dynamic young producers. Based in Pierry in the Coteaux Sud d’Epernay, Sélèque returned to the family domaine in 2008 and immediately stopped the use of herbicides; but he dates his realization that the raw materials for greatness are to be found in agronomy and not in the cellar to 2012. Farming is essentially organic, with some biodynamic practices, with the soils cultivated mechanically (in some instances, by horse) and canopies hedged higher than the average for additional shade and photosynthesis. Winter and intra-row cover crops mitigate erosion and preserve moisture in the soil. In the winery, much of the production is vinified in wood, without fining or filtration, and Sélèque favors native fermentations and doesn’t encourage or discourage malolactic. As his viticultural progress bears dividends, these wines go from strength to strength, and I find myself more and more impressed with every passing release. Now, a large underground and overground extension to his winery means Sélèque has the space and materials to be able to push his projects even further. Pierry enjoyed considerable historical celebrity, and thanks to Sélèque, it seems more than likely to regain it. Everything here comes recommended, and I warmly encourage readers to acquaint themselves with these wines.