2020 Dominio del Águila Pícaro del Águila Clarete

“Jorge Monzón considers 2020 to be an almost perfect vintage—cool and fresh, reminiscent of the great 2016. The pink 2020 Pícaro del Águila Clarete was produced with 35% Tempranillo, 35% Albillo Mayor and the rest other local grape varieties (Garnacha, Bobal, Bruñal, Monastrell, Tempranillo Gris, other Albillos, Garnacha Blanca, Pirules, Jaén, Moscatel, Malvasías…) found in the old vineyards. This is very different from your average rosé, more like a serious light red or powerful white that slowly fermented during 11 months and matured in barrel for 18 months. The orange-ish/pink wine is still young and lively, with some notes of toasted sesame seeds and a faint flinty reduction a little à la Coche-Dury, reminiscent of some vintages of their superb white. This was bottled without being racked, and perhaps that’s why it has this nice reduction and could be the finest vintage to date. It has a strong chalky aftertaste from the limestone-rich soils, which makes it a terroir white, but it’s also very marked by the style (which they updated from the traditional wines in Aranda in the old times) of a unique wine. It’s balanced and mellow but not a shy wine, with 14% alcohol and a pH of 3.26. I’ve tasted 15+-year-old bottles of wines of this style, and they were still lively, so this one should not be shorter lived. Unique. Given my experience with past vintages, I’d wait a little before pulling the cork here. Bottled in February 2022. Drink 2024-2035.”