2023 Comte Abbatucci Diplomate d’Empire Blanc

“As always, the 2023 Vin de France Diplomate d’Empire is a great wine of aspiration, a wine of purity and race, extremely noble, advancing in a minerality that is itself extremely deep, subtle, and complex. Its purity is delightful, with notes of candied fennel, white fruits at just-ripeness such as pear, and extremely strong, mineral sea spray. The palate texture is aerial, almost celestial, of a brilliance without equal, summoning beautiful saline, salivating bitters, but also and above all, a brilliance, vivacity, and nobility that only the domaine knows how to achieve on whites. Drink now-2038.”