NV Henri Giraud Brut Champagne Grand Cru Aÿ Fût de Chêne MV13 (stained label)

Disgorged in November 2017, the finest Champagne that I have ever tasted from Giraud is the NV Brut Grand Cru Aÿ Fût de Chêne MV13, a blend of 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay that’s based on the 2013 vintage, supplemented by fully 40% older wine from a perpetual reserve. Wafting from the glass with a rich bouquet of buttered yellow orchard fruits, brioche, dried white flowers, peach, orange rind and smoke, complemented by some delicate oxidative top notes, it’s full-bodied, broad and vinous, with an enveloping attack, a deep and layered core, lively acids and a long, sapid finish. While the vins clairs spent a year in oak, the wood influence is much more discrete than has sometimes been the case with Giraud’s wines, contributing texture and a gentle aromatic patina but remaining in a supporting role. Powerful but precise, this is a terrific effort that comes warmly recommended.